rearenginekarts.com

Hey Guys,
I buy mine from Grainger, (http://www.Grainger.com) right off the website. 250ea for $9
3/32" x 1/2" solid aluminum round head I just clip them shorter with a side cutter.

You need to peen them, I just use a steel block and a ball pean hammer from the back. Just don't hit them too hard.

Below is the info and below that is what they look like installed.

Solid Rivet, Round Head, Aluminum, Rivet Dia 3/32 In, Rivet Length 1/2 In, Head Diameter 0.187 In, Head Height 0.07 In, Package 250
Grainger Item # 6KU83
Price (pk.) $8.94
Package Qty. 250
Brand HANSON RIVET
Mfr. Model # 30A0308-EA-250
Ship Qty. 1
Sell Qty. (Will-Call) 1
Ship Weight (lbs.) 0.15
Usually Ships** 1-3 Days
Catalog Page No. 2749 catalog
Country of Origin
(Country of Origin is subject to change.) USA

Nice number plate!

I'm testing-out these 1/16" tag rivets which have the right look and size as original, but I think a true rivet which is peened-on real tight would work out better under vibration. I'd hate to lose one of these nice Terry Sullivan name plates on the track. Tom Smith is looking into a source for 1/16" alloy rivets which will sell smaller quantities than a million per box. I've also found sources but you end-up with hundreds more than you need.
I really think the head size in these tag rivets is just about right. I got them from LoveLady hardware in Torrance Ca for 5 cents each. Head diameter is .120 and the shank is .070 right under the head and the end starts at .062. Shank length is a very short .142
I used a .060 bit in a pinvise to carefully drill thru the name plate and a dremel to drill thru the shroud. It's a very tight fit using these spec's but haven't completed pushing them all the way thru to see if I can peen the end down a bit like a true rivet; they might be too hard. First I have to remove the adhesive backing paper and then there's not easy turning back. Will post more pics when it's done.
Terry has done a killer job on these name plates where they look like they belong on some high-end product/jewelery. You could just stick them one and forget about all this hassle I'm posting about.

Grainger also has 1/16" aluminum rivets in several lengths and head types from Hansen rivet right here in the USA.

Looks like quantities are 1000 though for about $15.

I didn't know what Mac used originally but I chose 3/32 because that was the size of the holes in the Mc10 shroud that I had for one of my engines. All the others were not drilled. It isn't a big deal for me, I am not a purest.

Scott,
Thanks for the spec on an original rivet hole size. I only had pictures of original motors (pic attached) and found something with the best looking head no matter what size shank. I'm not a purist either, but looking back at all my decimal measurements shows I do get "Detail-itis" Just thought it might help others and inspire them to give other options; Just like you have
I didn't know (or care) what the shank diameter McCulloch used since all my shrouds were not drilled yet. But it is nice to know 3/32" shank size was originally used for the MC10; Purists should take note
Whatever 3/32 shank rivet McCulloch used at the time really had a small head
Didn't want to mislead anyone thinking they must use a 1/16" rivet. What was important to me was to get the same look of the MC10's I had in the 60's.
Will be more careful in the future even when only a few MC10's are probably built worldwide per year anyways

I appreciate all your efforts in providing your nice pictures and information; really helpful. My son an I use your MC8 rebuild article all the time for reference and inspiration.

John, I have 5 NOS Mc-10s and have cut 4 of the shrouds for header clearance thru the middle of the tag. The rivets McCulloch used on those particular Mc-10s are 1/16". http://www.hansonrivet.com
I'll probably see you at Riverside, Tom

I guess 1/16" it is!!
Tom always knows Mc10's best.

Maybe someone drilled mine out. Like I said before, I could really care anyway. Sorry I started this thread.
I'm out..................................